Start out by popping out your filler plates. Sorry I don’t have pictures, mine fell out. They have a clip on the foglight/dummy side. Once these are out use the clips on the turns to pop them out. Then unscrew the fogs. These are kinda tough because of the angle but its easily doable.

You’ll see that the turn signal wiring has a 3 pin connection and the Euros have a 2 pin connection. To hook up the new lights correctly, you’ll need to find the proper 2 pin connector. I got mine from TMTuning.com. you will be cutting the 3 pin connector off of your stock wiring and connecting the new 2 pin connector.

For the Driver Side

Orange is your ground and will match up to the black wire. The black/white wire is live and goes to your red wire (for power). The grey/black wire is unused. Use electrical tape to seal it off and protect it in case you decide to go back to the OEM.

For the Passenger Side

This side has different colors but the procedure is the same. Orange goes to black and black/green to red. Tape off the grey/red wire.

Fog Lights

The fogs are already 2 pin so you don’t need to worry there. I got extra 2 pin connectors just in case and I’m glad I did. On mine one of the fogs was fused with the socket so I just replaced them. Red goes to red and black to black here.

To put the fogs in I lined them up and drilled a hole where the NA bottom screw should go. Then I mounted them using the screw. Tighten it thoroughly as it will be the only thing holding it in place. Do this to both sides.

With the fogs in you can now put in the turns. These wobbled around quite a bit so I used molding tape (double sided tape) on the top and bottom to get them to stay.

With that, you are complete and your lights should work.

Thanks to Mike for the wiring help for the turns.

Words and Photos: GT R4C3R

Mk3Love.com, its staff and its members cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to a vehicle, person or property by following advice given on this site or any communication relating to this site. We will try to provide you with the best and most technically sound advice, however, we cannot guarantee that the advice given is undeniably correct, as we do not check users’ qualifications.

Materials Needed:

• (16) studs 12×1.5 thread pitch (for 4 lug) - available from Gear Works Mfg
• (20) studs 14×1.5 thread pitch (for 5 lug) - available from Gear Works Mfg
• open ended lug nuts with appropriate thread pitch
• Red Loctite

Tools Needed:

• Allen keys/sockets
• Torque wrench

Estimated Time: 30 minutes install, 24 hour set period

Procedure:

Loosen lugs to remove wheels. Jack up the car and put it on jackstands. This is important because you need to leave the car up over night after installing the studs.

Remove wheels and lug bolts. Clean threads inside the hubs. Also make sure your new studs are clean.

Take one of the new studs you purchased and smother the short end of the threads in red Loctite. If you don’t do this, the studs probably won’t stay in very long.

Insert the stud into the hole and thread it with your hand at first to ensure proper threading.

The studs I purchased had an allen key hole in the outward facing side. You can use this to tighten the stud into place. If you do not have this provision in your studs, you can thread two nuts onto the stud facing each other. The nuts then tighten against each other and tighten the stud into the hub.

There is no specific torque spec to tighten the studs to, so thread the studs all the way in, then slightly further so that the threads start to dig into unthreaded territory. This method was recommend by Bildon. They said it was the best way to insert the studs, though 20 ft-lbs. is a decent torque spec for those that want one.

Repeat the previous steps until all studs are in.

Red Loctite takes 10 minutes to cure and 24 hours to set completely set. Leave the car on jackstands for 24 hours to allow the Loctite to do it’s work.

After 24 hours have passed, you’re good to put on your new open ended lug nuts and wheels. Torque the lug nuts to 85 ft-lbs. You must use open ended lug nuts due to the length of the studs. It’s possible that close ended lug nuts might hit the end of the stud.

Continue to check the studs for tightness periodically over the next 200 miles. Now you’ve got a Mk3 with wheel studs and open ended lug nuts, making wheel changes simpler and faster.

Words and Photos: midwestjetta

Mk3Love.com, its staff and its members cannot be held responsible for any damage caused to a vehicle, person or property by following advice given on this site or any communication relating to this site. We will try to provide you with the best and most technically sound advice, however, we cannot guarantee that the advice given is undeniably correct, as we do not check users’ qualifications.

INTRODUCTION
I have compiled this DIY based on several others I’ve seen online. I respect all work done by other enthusiasts and will credit them where necessary. The pictures and tips I am using came from Eric Stevenson’s DIY and I also used some tips provided by dzcad. This DIY describes hooking up a rear fog into a US-spec Jetta taillight. I plan to replace the photos used in this DIY once I do this install in my own Mk3.

PARTS NEEDED

• Euroswitch
• OEM repair wire, includes two connectors, VW P/N 000-979-133-A
• 16ga wire (20 ft)
• 21W bulb
• soldering iron
• heat shrink tubing
• zip ties

THE SWITCH
Remove the ABS panel using your flat head.

Now you can remove the euro switch. There is a plastic catch that needs to be pushed in for removal.

Basically, you’re running a wire from slot 12 on the headlight switch harness to the driver’s side taillight.

Cut the repair wire (VW P/N 000-979-133-A) in half, leaving two pieces with a female connector on one end and bare wire on the other. Connect one of the wiring connectors to the end of your 16ga wire (crimp or solder). It’s a good idea to shrink wrap where you solder, or at least use electrical tape to cover it. Insert your wire with the new connector into the headlight harness, pin 12.

Next you’ll be running that wire all the way back to the taillight.

RUNNING THE WIRE
You’ll probably want to hide your new rear fog wire. The factory wiring is hidden by body panels and carpet throughout the car. There is a harness that runs from behind the dash to the driver’s side taillight. It passes under the driver’s side door sill and up under the back seat.

From the back of the headlight switch, the wire runs down past the fuse box and behind a panel. Working under the dash is fairly difficult and there are only a few places to secure the new wire.

Look at the dead pedal. To the left is a panel where the hood release is located. There is a screw on that panel that needs to be removed. You can run the new wire behind that panel and on to the door sill.

There is one screw on the door sill that needs to be removed. It is located next to or behind the driver’s seat. If you follow the seatbelt down to it’s lower mounting bracket, you’ll find it. Unscrew the screw with a phillips head screw driver and then pull it out.

To remove the door sill you need to grab underneath it and pull toward the center of the car. The door sill has a lower lip on it; you need to free the lip. Once free, it should pull straight up. Run your wire alongside the others until you meet the rear seat. At the rear seat your wire will take a small detour, but don’t worry, he’ll meet up with his friends later.

Next you want to remove the three screws that hold the rear door panel in place. This allows you to move the panel a little so you can shove the new wire under the carpet.

After the three screws are removed, lift the rear seat forward and expose a cap. This cap, as well as the visible cap below it, need to be removed. The lower cap screws on, the upper is pressed in. Just pry it up. Now the wire detours from his friends.

You can follow the stock wiring harness again when you get to the rear seat back. The stock harness goes through the metal base of the rear seat. You don’t have to fish the wire up under there though, just make sure it gets to where it needs to go.

Run the wire under the rear seat back and through the trunk area. You’ll need to move the trunk carpet out of the way.

If all went as planned, you will have arrived at the driver’s side taillight with your wire.

HOOKING UP THE FOG
Connect the remaining half of your repair wire (VW P/N 000-979-133-A) to the 16ga wire you just routed. Then insert it into the only open pin on the left inner bulbholder.

You will need to Dremel out the plastic plug where the bulb goes. The DOT spec taillights are the same as E-Code taillights, but DOT spec taillights do not have the rear fog plug knocked out. It should be clearly defined and easily removed with the taillight still in the car.

Insert your 21W bulb into the bulbholder and put it back into the taillight. Now you are finished! And remember, the true Euro setup for rear fogs is to have one only on the driver’s side. Also, please don’t drive around with your rear fog on all the time. It is only meant to be used when it is foggy.